Our final destination in Japan was the small city of Nara, about 45 minutes by express train from Kyoto. We got a slightly late start to Tuesday (someone had to finish her GSB calculus exam using the Westin's free internet), but arrived in Nara by 1:30. One purpose of this one night detour was to stay in a ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn usually known for elegant Spartan-ness and extreme hospitality. We dropped our bags at Ryokan Matsumae, which was on a well-situated side street between the train station, covered shopping area, and Nara national park. We had a large second-floor room, covered in tatami mats, to ourselves. Once the air-conditioning got going, it was very pleasant, with a TV, bathroom, tea area and 3 sleeping palates.
The Rough Guide, which had previously steered us well in terms of restaurants (when we could find them), sent us to a sushi place right around the corner. Nara is known for persimmon-wrapped sushi, salmon, and mackerel. We got the set lunch, which started with a dish of citrus-dressed fresh cold mackerel. The subsequent bento was the best we've had on the trip, with cold somen noodles and fresh eel, a sesame tofu square, assorted pickled and marinated vegetables, and a few pieces of the area's signature sushi. The persimmon leaves are beautiful, and give a slight aromatic accent to the contents. The nigiri itself is square blocks of rice with a thin slice of fish, usually salmon or mackerel, on top. Washed down with crispy iced tea, it was one of our better meals.
Our faith in Japanese food restored, we walked up to Nara national park, famous for its shrines, temples, and tame wild deer. Entering the park, we were confronted by a hungry herd of waist-high deer. The deer are quite aggressive, as they've been accustomed to viewing humans as food sources. At first it's quite cute, as you pet the one or two that come up to you, but it very soon becomes apparent that these stags are ass men, as both A. and had our tushes nipped by animals looking for food in our pockets (is that a wafer or are you just happy to see me?). Even H. was not immune from the interest of a pretty doe or two, but his height scared off most of his suitors.
Escaping the herd (although their free-ranging cousins would resume the nudging, literally, elsewhere in the park) we walked up to the Great Shrine, and explored the east and west cloisters of the working religious building. From there we headed to the highlight of the park, and the one we were rushing to see before dusk, was Todaji, home to the Big Buddha. Approached from the main entrance, the massive house that holds the Buddha looms over the park, with the golden horns of the roof catching and refocusing the sun's rays. The Buddha is a huge bronze structure that presides over the stone temple guardians, smaller Bodhisattvas, and gaping tourists. Truly one of the coolest statues I've seen.
Apparently the gods decided we had not spent enough time basking in awe of the Buddha, as the skies opened up and the rain that had held off for the previous week hit in full force. The side effects of a typhoon, we huddled for shelter underneath the eaves of the temple as rushing rivulets raced off the roof and down the large gutters overhanging the entrance. Closing time meant the monks kicked us out, and we straggled back through the rain to the ryokan.
In addition to soaking our sneakers, the typhoon canceled the evening's lantern festival, which would have covered most of the park, including the lake, in paper lanterns. Plan B was excellent tempura and soba, followed by sake and beer in the ryokan while watching a movie on my tiny netbook. No one was surprised when I fell asleep 2 minutes in the movie, especially after eating my fill of shrimp tempura flavored with green salt, and inhaling plum wine and perfect sweet sake.
Wednesday morning, we were proud of our early start, which would enable us to make the most of our few hours in Nara before the long train ride back to Narita and flight to Beijing. Pride soon became dismay as we wandered in the bright sun to find precious little open at 9 AM. We found a diner straight from central casting by the train station, where we feasted on texas toast, hard-boiled eggs, and coffee with real cream and simple syrup. The diner breakfast means we can say we ran the full gamut of Japanese cuisine, from everyday breakfasts to convenience store bento lunches to elaborate set dinners.
Now if only we had seen Mount Fuji (finally!) on the train ride back to Tokyo...
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